Thursday, 6 March 2014
About IRN
I R N
The Rose-Ringed Parakeet or Indian Ringneck is classified as a smaller parrot known as a parakeet. These birds have a hooked beak, a long tail, and are smaller in size compared to most parrots. These parrots are about 16 inches in length and they have a stealthy appearance that sets them apart from most exotic birds.
Wild Indain Ringnecks are green with undertones of blue that can be seen during overcast days. These parrots have yellow feathers underling their wings and tail. Both males and females look very similar; however, the male has a black ring around his neck. His ring is highlighted with turquoise, pink, and blue. Although the female may not exhibit the impressive ring of the male, many Indian Ringneck enthusiasts will argue a slight green ring is visible.
Both sexes have large tails that are comprised of 12 feathers. The two largest tail feathers, which are blue, make up a large part of the parrot’s size. These elaborate tails can extend as much as 7 inches outward for the male and 6 inches outward for the female. Because these parrots are mostly green, they are very difficult to see during roosting or perching in trees. Most of the time, the presence of these parrots can be given away through their contact calls.
Indian Ringnecks are native to Asia and Africa and can be seen in the forests or arid environments. It’s not uncommon to see them thrive in urban areas as well. They have established colonies in environments which are not native to them, some major points of interest include California, Florida, and the UK. These birds are believed to cause major damage to crops; however, little evidence has been published to prove this accusation. Rose-Ringed Parakeets can be seen in rural areas feeding from birdfeeders or relaxing in parks.
Like most parrots, Indain Ringnecks are intelligent and DO make great pets. They learn concepts quickly and love to show off. Along with being intelligent they are great at talking. Quaker Parakeets are known for their talking ability but a ringneck can speak with clarity that is phenomenal. These birds are truly masters at talking for their size and can easily compete with quakers, greys, and amazons.
With that being said, I have decided to start an Indian Ringneck site that is devoted to these majestic parrots.
Wild Indain Ringnecks are green with undertones of blue that can be seen during overcast days. These parrots have yellow feathers underling their wings and tail. Both males and females look very similar; however, the male has a black ring around his neck. His ring is highlighted with turquoise, pink, and blue. Although the female may not exhibit the impressive ring of the male, many Indian Ringneck enthusiasts will argue a slight green ring is visible.
Both sexes have large tails that are comprised of 12 feathers. The two largest tail feathers, which are blue, make up a large part of the parrot’s size. These elaborate tails can extend as much as 7 inches outward for the male and 6 inches outward for the female. Because these parrots are mostly green, they are very difficult to see during roosting or perching in trees. Most of the time, the presence of these parrots can be given away through their contact calls.
Indian Ringnecks are native to Asia and Africa and can be seen in the forests or arid environments. It’s not uncommon to see them thrive in urban areas as well. They have established colonies in environments which are not native to them, some major points of interest include California, Florida, and the UK. These birds are believed to cause major damage to crops; however, little evidence has been published to prove this accusation. Rose-Ringed Parakeets can be seen in rural areas feeding from birdfeeders or relaxing in parks.
Like most parrots, Indain Ringnecks are intelligent and DO make great pets. They learn concepts quickly and love to show off. Along with being intelligent they are great at talking. Quaker Parakeets are known for their talking ability but a ringneck can speak with clarity that is phenomenal. These birds are truly masters at talking for their size and can easily compete with quakers, greys, and amazons.
With that being said, I have decided to start an Indian Ringneck site that is devoted to these majestic parrots.
Alexandrine Parakeets
Alexandrine Parakeets
The Alexandrine parrot is a larger version of both the Indian and African Ringneck. They look so much like their smaller cousins that many parrot enthusiasts who do not study Asiatics can accidentally classify these parrots as their more popular cousins. All Alexandrine parrots exhibit the classic ringneck look-- dark green bodies, long tails, red beaks, and yellow eyes. The only major difference visible from their cousins are their maroon patched wings and larger bills. These parrots are dimorphic which means males and females look different. The male will showcase a dark black ring, followed by a pink ring--hues of blue cover the face and gradually fade into the body. The female and juveniles lacks these markings. Most male Alexandrine parrots start to develop their ring around 18 months while some can take as long as three years. The only sure way to sex theses parrots before sexual maturity is through DNA sexing.
These parrots are not as popular as Indian Ringnecks in the pet trade because they do not exhibit the many mutations as their cousins. These parrots are renowned for their exotic looks, so much so, parrot collectors quickly purchase them as aviary ornaments because of their prestige and rarity.
These parrots are not as popular as Indian Ringnecks in the pet trade because they do not exhibit the many mutations as their cousins. These parrots are renowned for their exotic looks, so much so, parrot collectors quickly purchase them as aviary ornaments because of their prestige and rarity.
In The Wild
Indian Ringnecks As Pets
Indian Ringnecks As Pets
Indian Ringnecks in my opinion make excellent pets. They have stable personalities and can cope with minimal attention during busy times (does not mean they are content alone), and are great companions. These birds are stigmatized with a bad reputation of being impossible to keep. Avian breeders, who have had little experience with ringnecks, are usually quick to point out that ringnecks make horrible pets. This is untrue and I find that on the contrary they make marvelous pets. I believe not enough time and research has been invested into these parrots to make such a false statement. This bird is adored more for its mutations rather then its marvelous characteristics and pet qualities.
In general, IRNs (Indian Ringnecks) are not affectionate by nature. During the breeding season, which will vary form location to location, IRNs become affectionate and demand it. They are not as affectionate as some well known other parrots; however, there are those that always break the rule. It is important to understand that parrots have personalities much like humans and every bird is an individual. Many times, while reading articles or watching IRNs around their owners I'll see just how affectionate they are. I then become delusional of the idea that ringnecks don’t like to be petted. Even though it's said ringnecks do not like being petted, they NEED and crave social interaction.
Ringnecks are marvelous talkers. They can talk very well and hearing them talk can be an enjoyment. Some ringnecks start talking around seven months, while most start around a year. They talk clearly and can easily be understood by strangers. These parrots can easily keep up with their larger cousins. Both males and females are able to talk; however, the male seems to be more gifted.
It should be said that buying a parrot for its talking ability is not a smart choice or is it ethical. Too many times people buy parrots on impulse and the species ability to mimic speech. This impulse buying is common and the result is devastating. The parrot, who did not meet the owner’s expectations, is subjected to a life of boredom and usually goes from house to house. As stated above, each bird is an individual and some will not talk. Parrots should be purchased for their company rather then their talking ability.
Along with their ability to mimic speech rather well, the Indian Ringneck is an avid learner. These parrots pick up concepts extremely fast, along with tricks and behaviors. In Asia, these birds are used as performers to attract spectators as they pass by shops. These parrots love to be challenged mentally and look forward to mental stimulation.
Both males and females make excellent pets. Again, more Myths plague this parrot when it comes to picking a pet Indian Ringneck. Males and females both make great pets. Some ringneck owners are told one sex is better than the other— this is nonsense. The parrot’s character and behavioral skills are learned at a young age and it really comes down to how well the parrot has been socialized to co-adapt with humans.
Tuesday, 4 March 2014
Hand Feeding Day Old Chicks
Hand Feeding Day Old Chicks
Take Caution Before Hand Feeding
Hand feeding an Indian Ringneck is sometimes necessary when a mother will not care for her babies properly. Hand feeding a baby ringneck, or any parrot for that matter, takes patience and is a long commitment. The baby ringneck needs to be fed continually every two hours and this means through the night too. Before you decide to take on such a task, make sure you are ready for this and please research the topic as accidents can easily happen unintentionally.
If you believe hand feeding a day old chick is too difficult, or you believe it's too time consuming, seek a veterinarian who will take on the task. Most experienced parrot breeders will gladly help in such a situation too.
If you are an established breeder, fostering might be an ideal situation--female ringnecks can care for a newborn chick better then any human can. Along with this superior care, special nutrients are transferred to the chick and this helps to develop its immune system and digestive tract. With that being said, if you must hand feed from day one then begin the hand feeding process.
If you believe hand feeding a day old chick is too difficult, or you believe it's too time consuming, seek a veterinarian who will take on the task. Most experienced parrot breeders will gladly help in such a situation too.
If you are an established breeder, fostering might be an ideal situation--female ringnecks can care for a newborn chick better then any human can. Along with this superior care, special nutrients are transferred to the chick and this helps to develop its immune system and digestive tract. With that being said, if you must hand feed from day one then begin the hand feeding process.
Things To Know Before Hand Feeding
Hand feeding a baby Indian Ringneck from day one is a tedious task. The newborn chick, which is small and wiggly, can be difficult to work with and can easily get cold in a matter of minutes. Their small frame makes them difficult to pick up and makes them extremely fragile. When handling, always disinfect your hands and always make sure to handle the baby ringneck gently.
If the chick was hatched from an incubator do not feed it until six hours after hatching. Feeding the chick too early can kill it.
If the baby ringneck is taken from its parents place the chick inside a brooder and let it warm up. The brooder should be around 95 degrees ferinheight. Though some breeders keep the temperature around 97-98 degrees, I find 95 degrees keeps the chick comfortable enough and stable. If the chick is panting, remove him from the brooder to cool down and decrease the degree by 1 until the chick stops panting.
Once the baby ringneck has been warmed, the first feeding can begin. For any reason at all if food is in the crop from it parents, let this get digested before you feed it. You will see a clear milky liquid in the crop if food is present.
Though it would be ideal to have a plastic pipette, or a syringe specially for hand feeding, an eye dropper will work until a pipette or syringe can be purchased. An eye dropper is small enough to complete the job and will work; however, a syringe will need to be purchased as the chick's gets bigger.
If the chick was hatched from an incubator do not feed it until six hours after hatching. Feeding the chick too early can kill it.
If the baby ringneck is taken from its parents place the chick inside a brooder and let it warm up. The brooder should be around 95 degrees ferinheight. Though some breeders keep the temperature around 97-98 degrees, I find 95 degrees keeps the chick comfortable enough and stable. If the chick is panting, remove him from the brooder to cool down and decrease the degree by 1 until the chick stops panting.
Once the baby ringneck has been warmed, the first feeding can begin. For any reason at all if food is in the crop from it parents, let this get digested before you feed it. You will see a clear milky liquid in the crop if food is present.
Though it would be ideal to have a plastic pipette, or a syringe specially for hand feeding, an eye dropper will work until a pipette or syringe can be purchased. An eye dropper is small enough to complete the job and will work; however, a syringe will need to be purchased as the chick's gets bigger.
Tips For Hand Feeding Day Old Chicks
• Feed formula between 105F-108F.
• For 1st feeding, use only an electrolyte solution.
• Wash all feeding utensils.
• Keep the baby warm. If it gets too cold this could stop digestion.
• Change the paper towels after every feeding.
• If an emergency arises call an avian vet immediately.
• Never force the chick to eat if it does not want more.
• Do not over fill the corp.
• During the 1st few feedings a couple of drops will suffice.
• Feed every two hours, or until the crop is almost empty.
The First Feeding
The first feeding of the chick should be with an electrolyte solution that is unflavored, such as Pedialyte. This electrolyte solution should be given to the chick for the first feeding; this ensures the chick’s digestion tract is working correctly. If the crop empties, it’s time to feed a commercial hand feeding formula.
To do this, gently place a drop of the electrolyte solution on the LEFT side of the baby ringneck's mouth. Most baby ringnecks will gladly accept the food. If you find the baby is not taking in any of the liquid, place him back inside the brooder and wait fifteen minutes before you try again. Some babies need to practice this before they understand eating from a pipette or syringe. If the baby ringneck will still not accept food, make sure the food is warm enough. Having a hot glass of water next to you would be ideal as holding the pipette in it for a few seconds will warm it up. Make sure to test it on your wrist to ensure it is not scolding hot.
To do this, gently place a drop of the electrolyte solution on the LEFT side of the baby ringneck's mouth. Most baby ringnecks will gladly accept the food. If you find the baby is not taking in any of the liquid, place him back inside the brooder and wait fifteen minutes before you try again. Some babies need to practice this before they understand eating from a pipette or syringe. If the baby ringneck will still not accept food, make sure the food is warm enough. Having a hot glass of water next to you would be ideal as holding the pipette in it for a few seconds will warm it up. Make sure to test it on your wrist to ensure it is not scolding hot.
Commercial Hand Feeding Formula
I personally recommend Kaytee’s Exact. I have never lost a bird using this formula and it’s probably, in opinion, the best out there. According to Kaytee’s Exact feeding formula it “contains probiotics to encourage a healthy population on intestinal microorganisms. Also, digestive enzymes (amylase and protease) are included to insure adequate digestion of carbohydrates and proteins.”
It’s obvious this formula was designed for feeding hatchlings to adults. To be sure the baby ringnecks don't dehydrate I like to substitute the electrolyte solution instead of water for the first five days when using Exact hand feeding formula. If you don't want to use an electrolyte solution always use the chart shown on the box for mixing the formula. According to Exact, it’s 1 part formula, 6 parts water for a chick that's 2 days and younger.
It’s obvious this formula was designed for feeding hatchlings to adults. To be sure the baby ringnecks don't dehydrate I like to substitute the electrolyte solution instead of water for the first five days when using Exact hand feeding formula. If you don't want to use an electrolyte solution always use the chart shown on the box for mixing the formula. According to Exact, it’s 1 part formula, 6 parts water for a chick that's 2 days and younger.
Sexing Your Ringneck Parrot
Sexing Your Ringneck Parrot
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Feeding Your Indian Ringneck Or Asiatic Parrot
Feeding Your Indian Ringneck Or Asiatic Parrot
Ringnecks and Asiatic parrots are not picky eaters. Most ringnecks and Asiatic parrots will eagerly devour fruits and vegetables if they are given the chance. Only a few selected birds might refuse to eat alternative foods other than seeds. In my experience, if I ever did come across an Indian Ringneck who chose not to eat pellets, fruits, or vegetables--they were easily converted to a healthy diet in weeks. Asiatic parrots in particular seem to be birds that really enjoy trying different foods. My Indian Ringnecks have such an appetite that anything that is placed into their cage is quickly eaten up.
The Diet Of A Wild Ringneck
Wild ringnecks eat many things in their natural surroundings. These parrots enjoy fruits, blossoms, and seeds. Because of their need to eat fresh fruits many farmers around the world regard ringnecks as a serious pest. For example, it's not uncommon for south east Asian farmers to complain about these birds. More recently many farmers located in Bakersfield, California are starting to complain about crop damage due to feral ringnecks. There, they are said to feed off orchards and damage the fruits before they can be picked. A majority of these feral ringnecks are also supported and fed by enthusiasts by backyard birdfeeders.
In the wild these birds seek fresh samplings that can easily be devoured. If none are present, many will resort to dandelion leaves on the ground. Some ringnecks dine on an occasional insects for protein. These birds eat a variety of foods and noting is off limits if it's edible.
In the wild these birds seek fresh samplings that can easily be devoured. If none are present, many will resort to dandelion leaves on the ground. Some ringnecks dine on an occasional insects for protein. These birds eat a variety of foods and noting is off limits if it's edible.
The Diet Of A Captive Ringneck
Feeding your ringneck does not need to be complicated. In fact, feeding them is quite enjoyable. These birds need a variety of fresh fruits, vegetables, seeds, and pellets to enjoy a long life.
Many ringneck owners will only provide seeds while others only provide pellets. I believe doing so limits the optimal nutritional value. Ringneck were designed to eat a variety of foods and providing only one type of food is boring, unnatural, and could cause major health problems down the road. Many owners swear by one product while others dismiss products. Finding a food can get complicated and it can be overwhelming if you don't know what to feed your ringneck. I like to keep things simple and feed a variety of everything.
When I first started breeding my Indian Ringnecks I was told never to use pellets that were artificially dyed. I can’t disagree with this statement more. I have been using a particular brand for a while and I have never run into problems with my bird’s health. I find this information to be misleading and no scientific evidence has been published to prove these accusations. My ringnecks are healthy and active and I attribute this to their diet. So finding a what works for you and your birds is the best answer here.
Many ringneck owners will only provide seeds while others only provide pellets. I believe doing so limits the optimal nutritional value. Ringneck were designed to eat a variety of foods and providing only one type of food is boring, unnatural, and could cause major health problems down the road. Many owners swear by one product while others dismiss products. Finding a food can get complicated and it can be overwhelming if you don't know what to feed your ringneck. I like to keep things simple and feed a variety of everything.
When I first started breeding my Indian Ringnecks I was told never to use pellets that were artificially dyed. I can’t disagree with this statement more. I have been using a particular brand for a while and I have never run into problems with my bird’s health. I find this information to be misleading and no scientific evidence has been published to prove these accusations. My ringnecks are healthy and active and I attribute this to their diet. So finding a what works for you and your birds is the best answer here.
Seeds
Seeds should be included in a healthy Asiatic parrot diet. Seeds should not be removed because these birds naturally eat seeds in the wild. Breeders insisted that seeds were bad for their birds because many of the parrots that only ate seeds developed problems. Seeds alone are fatty and can cause serious complications and shorten the lifespan of your Asiatic parrot drastically. If however, they are given in moderation then they are perfectly safe and healthy.
Mixing Seeds & Pellets Together
I would not advise mixing pellets and seeds together. Indian Ringnecks are smart and will easily avoid eating the pellets if possible. It is much better to rotate between the two. I keep the seeds in for four days and the pellets in for three days. This gives my ringnecks the opportunity to really eat and benefit from each food. Giving only pellets can cause a nutrient overdose; giving pellets in moderation will avoid this. The key is moderation and substitution here.
Please note, if your ringneck does not eat pellets, then you have to slowly introduce them into the diet before they are switched with seeds. The ringneck will starve itself if it has not learned to eat pellets.
Please note, if your ringneck does not eat pellets, then you have to slowly introduce them into the diet before they are switched with seeds. The ringneck will starve itself if it has not learned to eat pellets.
Fruits & Vegetables
Fruits need to be added to your Indian Ringneck’s diet as well. Apples are probably one of their favorite fruits. Watching them eat their apples is fascinating and it is obvious they enjoy the taste of it. They eagerly drink the juice and chew the flesh into a pulp. It is amazing how quickly a slice will disappear. Grapes also seem to be a favorite and are enjoyed. Be sure to include all kinds of fruits such as oranges, kiwis, pears, mangos, and melons. Spoiled or old fruit should never be given to your parrot. Fruits provide antioxidants and are very healthy.
Though fruit is probably their first choice of fresh foods, vegetables need to be included into their diet as well. I give my Indian Ringneck raw baby carrots. Archimedes, my pet Indian Ringneck, will munch on a baby carrot for hours. He holds the carrot in his hand and takes small bites. Leafy greens need to be included too. I just place the leaves whole into the cages. Most Indian Ringnecks will not hold them but will gently tear off chunks. Warm squashes such as pumpkin, zucchini, or banana squashes are enjoyed if they are cubed and boiled. Be creative and always offer vegetables to their diet.
Though fruit is probably their first choice of fresh foods, vegetables need to be included into their diet as well. I give my Indian Ringneck raw baby carrots. Archimedes, my pet Indian Ringneck, will munch on a baby carrot for hours. He holds the carrot in his hand and takes small bites. Leafy greens need to be included too. I just place the leaves whole into the cages. Most Indian Ringnecks will not hold them but will gently tear off chunks. Warm squashes such as pumpkin, zucchini, or banana squashes are enjoyed if they are cubed and boiled. Be creative and always offer vegetables to their diet.
Protein
You also need to feed your parrot items rich in protein. Too much protein is not good; however, a few chunks of cooked meat is ideal. I find that shredded turkey or chicken will do the trick. Once a week I offer some kind of protein item. Just be sure to remove it an hour after being placed into the cage. This will ensure it does not spoil.
Bringing Home Your New Ringneck
Bringing Home Your New Ringneck
Bringing home an Indian Ringneck is exciting and there are some pitfalls that can be avoided to ensure your parrot does not become stressed during this transition. Like most parrots, ringnecks are sensitive to stressful situations and being placed into a new environment is no exception. If proper research is done a new ringneck should adjust into its new environment smoothly. This will intern set the tone for a long and happy life with you.
The Arrival Of Your New Ringneck
When your ringneck has been purchased and brought into your house for the first time you might have the temptation to hold him and introduce him to your family. Though this is common, there are certain things you should take into consideration before you let your new ringneck out. The first important thing to observe is the parrot’s health.
A healthy ringneck will react to human interaction in some way. For example, an untamed ringneck might shows signs of fear, while a hand-tamed ringneck will gladly step on your finger. A parrot that sits with ruffled feathers, a runny nose, watery eyes, and discharge from the vent should see a veterinarian immediately. If other birds are present inside the house, your new ringneck should not be introduced into the same room until he has undergone some type of quarantine.
It is also important to observe the temperament of your ringneck before any handling can begin. At this time it is usually good to take into consideration his upbringing, weaning, and socialization history. A properly handfed ringneck will most likely enjoy some sort of human interaction. His curiosity should be elevated and usually he should have no regard to who is handling him or any environmental changes. If your bird is playful and confident from the beginning, then it would be acceptable to handle him upon his arrival.
If your ringneck acts erratic and thrashes around his cage in the presence of humans or pets—most likely he was not handfed, was aviary raised, or is scared. This is a clear and obvious warning that your ringneck needs time to adjust and has not been tamed. The best thing to do in this situation would be to give the ringneck a few days to adjust before any handling can begin. Knowing your ringneck's temperament will help eliminate a stressful situation.
A healthy ringneck will react to human interaction in some way. For example, an untamed ringneck might shows signs of fear, while a hand-tamed ringneck will gladly step on your finger. A parrot that sits with ruffled feathers, a runny nose, watery eyes, and discharge from the vent should see a veterinarian immediately. If other birds are present inside the house, your new ringneck should not be introduced into the same room until he has undergone some type of quarantine.
It is also important to observe the temperament of your ringneck before any handling can begin. At this time it is usually good to take into consideration his upbringing, weaning, and socialization history. A properly handfed ringneck will most likely enjoy some sort of human interaction. His curiosity should be elevated and usually he should have no regard to who is handling him or any environmental changes. If your bird is playful and confident from the beginning, then it would be acceptable to handle him upon his arrival.
If your ringneck acts erratic and thrashes around his cage in the presence of humans or pets—most likely he was not handfed, was aviary raised, or is scared. This is a clear and obvious warning that your ringneck needs time to adjust and has not been tamed. The best thing to do in this situation would be to give the ringneck a few days to adjust before any handling can begin. Knowing your ringneck's temperament will help eliminate a stressful situation.
Are The Wings Clipped?
Before any handling is done ensure your ringneck’s wings are clipped. Many new parrot owners do not realize the state of their bird’s wings until the bird is startled and flies away. If your ringneck can fly, having his wings clipped will reduce a disastrous situation. There is noting more depressing then a lost bird because the wings were not clipped.
If your ringneck is scared it is important handling is kept to a minimum. A stressed ringneck can easily bite and hurt itself in an effort to escape a tramatic situation. When transferring the ringneck to its cage make sure to inspect the wings before the transfer is done. A scared ringneck that does not have its wings clipped can easily fly into a window or mirror and kill itself—take caution. If the ringneck will not move from one cage to another, gently take a small towel and wrap it around the bird and move it form one cage (carrier) to another. Ensure to use gentile movements and a calm voice to reasure the bird and to make sure it is not frightened.
If your ringneck is scared it is important handling is kept to a minimum. A stressed ringneck can easily bite and hurt itself in an effort to escape a tramatic situation. When transferring the ringneck to its cage make sure to inspect the wings before the transfer is done. A scared ringneck that does not have its wings clipped can easily fly into a window or mirror and kill itself—take caution. If the ringneck will not move from one cage to another, gently take a small towel and wrap it around the bird and move it form one cage (carrier) to another. Ensure to use gentile movements and a calm voice to reasure the bird and to make sure it is not frightened.
A Clean Bill Of Health
Knowing your ringneck has a clean bill of health is important if you’re going to introduce him into your home or aviary. An ill bird could potentially transfer diseases or parasites to your established flocks if left unchecked. Unfortunately, many breeders have made the mistake of not practicing a healthy quarantine and have learned the hard way. An outbreak can quickly spread to healthy birds if not checked.
Always make sure to take all new ringnecks to the vet to ensure your new bird is in optimal condition. Most breeders will offer some sort of guarantee or vet certificate upon the purchase of your bird. Ruling out any diseases is a key factor to ensure you have a happy and healthy pet that can safely be integrated into your household.
Again, if you have other parrots, the new ringneck should be placed in a different room away from your established parrots to avoid any air born diseases. Always wash your hands between sessions when interacting with your established birds and new birds. Finally, always change the new ringneck's cage last after you have cleaned your original birds first. This one-way interaction will reduce the chance of spreading disease from one cage to the other.
Always make sure to take all new ringnecks to the vet to ensure your new bird is in optimal condition. Most breeders will offer some sort of guarantee or vet certificate upon the purchase of your bird. Ruling out any diseases is a key factor to ensure you have a happy and healthy pet that can safely be integrated into your household.
Again, if you have other parrots, the new ringneck should be placed in a different room away from your established parrots to avoid any air born diseases. Always wash your hands between sessions when interacting with your established birds and new birds. Finally, always change the new ringneck's cage last after you have cleaned your original birds first. This one-way interaction will reduce the chance of spreading disease from one cage to the other.
Cage Placement
If the ringneck is not tamed the cage should be placed in a location where it is quiet and there are no loud noises. Having a quiet place to relax and get acquainted with his surroundings is ideal for your new ringneck. This is especially important if your ringneck has not been handfed and finds coping with change to be difficult.
If a ringneck is forced into a stressful situation he could quickly become ill or exhibit nervous behavior. A worried ringneck will not eat and could thrash around his cage if placed in an uncomfortable area. If possible, the cage should be placed at eye level to create a sense of confidence in your bird. Ringnecks were designed to stay high in the trees so placing the cage in a higher location will give the parrot added security. During the time the bird is adjusting to its surroundings, it would be a good idea to keep children, pets, and excessive noises out.
The cage should not be placed in a window without some sort of covering or shelter. The sun can quickly overheat your parrot or a slight draft can cause the parrot to become ill. Finding a balance between the sunlight and a properly dressed window that provides shade is ideal.
If a ringneck is forced into a stressful situation he could quickly become ill or exhibit nervous behavior. A worried ringneck will not eat and could thrash around his cage if placed in an uncomfortable area. If possible, the cage should be placed at eye level to create a sense of confidence in your bird. Ringnecks were designed to stay high in the trees so placing the cage in a higher location will give the parrot added security. During the time the bird is adjusting to its surroundings, it would be a good idea to keep children, pets, and excessive noises out.
The cage should not be placed in a window without some sort of covering or shelter. The sun can quickly overheat your parrot or a slight draft can cause the parrot to become ill. Finding a balance between the sunlight and a properly dressed window that provides shade is ideal.
Observation
Once the ringneck has been moved over to its new cage take the time to observe your new ringneck. During this observation period make sure your ringneck is eating and drinking regularly. Placing a few extra food and water bowls inside the cage is a good idea. During this time, most ringnecks will not touch their food until their owner leaves the room. You’ll know when the ringneck eats by examining his seeds. You want to look for cracked husks. If you can’t tell then gently blow on the seeds and husks will fly off the top layer off seeds.
Another important thing to examine is your parrot’s stools. If they are runny then this is a good sign your ringneck has diarrhea and still needs more time to adjust to its environment. If your parrot has not made any effort to pass food then he is not eating enough--more space should be given to the ringneck. For any reason if you believe your ringneck is ill do not hesitate to contact an avian vet.
Another important thing to examine is your parrot’s stools. If they are runny then this is a good sign your ringneck has diarrhea and still needs more time to adjust to its environment. If your parrot has not made any effort to pass food then he is not eating enough--more space should be given to the ringneck. For any reason if you believe your ringneck is ill do not hesitate to contact an avian vet.
Ringneck Breeding Methods
Ringneck Breeding Methods
When breeding ringnecks there are two approaches that can be successfully practiced--housing the birds separately according to their sex, or housing individual pairs together permanently. Both methods are commonly used with great success. Choosing a type of breeding method usually depends on the breeder's motives.
Housing Ringnecks According To Sex
Breeders who raise ringnecks for mutations usually separate the males from the females. Just before the breeding season approaches the male is introduced into the cage of the female who has worked the nesting box (digging inside the box). If this method is practiced special caution should be used before introducing the male into the female's cage.
A female ringneck can be very aggressive, especially when guarding her territory. She sets the pace of courting and will gladly make her mood known to her mate. A female ringneck that is not supervised can quickly injure or kill her companion. So before placing the male into the female's cage, a few techniques can be practiced to help minimize any aggressive behavior.
When the female begins to show an interest in breeding, usually by spending time inside her nesting box, the male should be placed near her cage. The female needs to adjust to the male's presence before he can be introduced. During this time, the female might spend hours clinging to the side of her cage near the male. The male might pin his eyes and bow while the female tilts her head back. Keep them separate for about a week or until the breeder is sure she is interested in her mate. Then place the ringnecks together.
After the ringnecks have been introduced the female might chase the male. During this time the breeder should wait around to ensure the female is not harming the male. If it's obvious the male is being harmed or the breeder believes the pair will not bond, the pair should be separated or a new mate chosen.
A great technique would be to clip the female's wings enough to allow her to fly into her box, but not enough to harm her mate. The male's wings should always be fully grown to avoid any sudden attacks.
If the birds cannot get along and the breeder wishes to try to keep them paired, placing both the female and the male together in a new cage in a new location should help to solve this issue. Moving the pair to a new cage will force them to cling together and develop a bond.
A female ringneck can be very aggressive, especially when guarding her territory. She sets the pace of courting and will gladly make her mood known to her mate. A female ringneck that is not supervised can quickly injure or kill her companion. So before placing the male into the female's cage, a few techniques can be practiced to help minimize any aggressive behavior.
When the female begins to show an interest in breeding, usually by spending time inside her nesting box, the male should be placed near her cage. The female needs to adjust to the male's presence before he can be introduced. During this time, the female might spend hours clinging to the side of her cage near the male. The male might pin his eyes and bow while the female tilts her head back. Keep them separate for about a week or until the breeder is sure she is interested in her mate. Then place the ringnecks together.
After the ringnecks have been introduced the female might chase the male. During this time the breeder should wait around to ensure the female is not harming the male. If it's obvious the male is being harmed or the breeder believes the pair will not bond, the pair should be separated or a new mate chosen.
A great technique would be to clip the female's wings enough to allow her to fly into her box, but not enough to harm her mate. The male's wings should always be fully grown to avoid any sudden attacks.
If the birds cannot get along and the breeder wishes to try to keep them paired, placing both the female and the male together in a new cage in a new location should help to solve this issue. Moving the pair to a new cage will force them to cling together and develop a bond.
Housing Individual Pairs Together Permanently
The second method, which is housing pairs together throughout the year is my favorite. This method is preferred because it reduces any aggressive behavior. This will minimize the chances of the male being attacked because the female has had a full year of bonding with him. When breeding begins, the male and female will start to become more affectionate towards each other--usually both will go about their business throughout the year, then become exceptionally interested in each other during breeding. When this happens, I know it's only a matter of time before the first egg is laid.
I find keeping my pairs together has many benefits. Firstly, it is easier to predict how well both parents will care for their young and what mutations are possible. Secondly, it makes keeping accurate records of the babies easy and is less work in general.
I find keeping my pairs together has many benefits. Firstly, it is easier to predict how well both parents will care for their young and what mutations are possible. Secondly, it makes keeping accurate records of the babies easy and is less work in general.
Indian Ringneck Bluffing
Indian Ringneck Bluffing
You have just purchased your new Indian Ringneck and all is going well. Within days or weeks after settling into its new environment, your playful sweet parrot has turned into a monster. His eyes will pin (when the pupil constricts to a tiny dot) and you receive many nasty bites. These bites seem relentless and you cannot seem to get them to stop, even approaching the cage might trigger your ringneck to get aggressive.
You start to take the attacks personal, so you believe it is better to keep your parrot in his cage for awhile. You sit and wonder why your new handfed Indian Rigneck is biting because you feel you have done everything for him. Many questions run through your mind. Have I done something wrong? Does he hate me now? Is he going to be like this forever? Feeling helpless and confused, you have no idea what to do next or why this happened. Welcome to the topic of bluffing!
Indian Ringnecks go through a special stage after being weaned that may cause them to be aggressive. This stage is natural and is a critical learning period for your Indian Ringneck. How you deal with this stage has a long lasting affect on your ringneck’s personality and will probably mold your ringneck for the rest of its life. So why do ringneck’s bluff?
Thinking about this answer for many years, I have come to the conclusion that ringnecks bluff for a variety of reasons. Firstly, the first culprit could be a surge of hormones. During this period, ringnecks may receive hormones that trigger them to start to become somewhat independent. Though no scientific evidence has proven this to be true, I believe something chemical inside the ringneck starts to change. These hormones alter their attitude so much, that most ringnecks cope through biting. Most are edgy and try to bite for any reason. I like to think of this bluffing stage as their toddler years.
Secondly, the most important reason is to learn how to survive independently. A ringneck must learn to adapt and survive on its own without the aid of its parents. I have noticed that during this bluffing stage, Indian Ringnecks are fearless. They explore items without caution and are very careless. I am convinced this stage helps them understand what is acceptable and what’s dangerous.
Much like a toddler, who grabs at anything, ringnecks use their beak in this same manner. It's their way of testing objects and learning about themselves, foods, and objects.
Thirdly, it could be a genetic trait helps them to avoid inbreeding (Indian Ringnecks are not monogamous).
Old literature points out that Indian Ringnecks went through this stage to test their limits with their owners, though this holds some truth, ringnecks, or any other parrot for that matter, I believe do not have pack mentalities like canines. I believe there is no alpha leader, instead Indian Ringnecks work together as one entity—known as a flock. With the birds I have studied and seen, no Indian Ringneck leads the flock or is more dominant then the others. They may get into quarrels, but they are quickly solved and the birds go about their business. So how should bluffing be addressed?
Start by interacting with the bird like you would normally do. This bluffing needs to be completely ignored. If the bird bites do not make a fuss about it and completely ignore it. Under no circumstances are you to yell or hit your bird during this stage -- or any other time. Do not wobble your hand, do not spray the bird, or do not flick the beak. Ringnecks do not understand this type of punishment. If they are abused in this manner they become aggressive and fearful of humans. You need to gradually let your ringneck know that biting is not tolerated and will get no reaction out of you. At the same time, you need to be open to your ringneck’s needs and be understanding towards your bird’s attitude. They need to feel confident enough to trust you and they need time to let these hormones subside.
I have seen many ringnecks become biters during this stage because they were improperly dealt with. Some owners resorted to abusive tactics in hopes their ringneck would learn that biting equals punishment. Other owners choose not to deal with the bluffing, so they confined their parrot to a cage. Yelling at your ringneck or telling him to stop also resulted in chronic biting. In the ringneck’s eyes, any type of reaction given by you is a reward. The best and effective way to deal with this is to ignore it. Your voice should only be used to greet, praise, and coddle the bird—not for discipline.
Though some bites are predictable, some are not. To minimize these bites keep a toy or something your ringneck finds fascinating. Distract him as much as possible if you believe your ringneck is extra edgy or moody for that particular sitting. If your ringneck does choose to bite and will not let go, gently blow on its beak and ignore the fact you got bit. Do this until the bluffing has passed.
You start to take the attacks personal, so you believe it is better to keep your parrot in his cage for awhile. You sit and wonder why your new handfed Indian Rigneck is biting because you feel you have done everything for him. Many questions run through your mind. Have I done something wrong? Does he hate me now? Is he going to be like this forever? Feeling helpless and confused, you have no idea what to do next or why this happened. Welcome to the topic of bluffing!
Indian Ringnecks go through a special stage after being weaned that may cause them to be aggressive. This stage is natural and is a critical learning period for your Indian Ringneck. How you deal with this stage has a long lasting affect on your ringneck’s personality and will probably mold your ringneck for the rest of its life. So why do ringneck’s bluff?
Thinking about this answer for many years, I have come to the conclusion that ringnecks bluff for a variety of reasons. Firstly, the first culprit could be a surge of hormones. During this period, ringnecks may receive hormones that trigger them to start to become somewhat independent. Though no scientific evidence has proven this to be true, I believe something chemical inside the ringneck starts to change. These hormones alter their attitude so much, that most ringnecks cope through biting. Most are edgy and try to bite for any reason. I like to think of this bluffing stage as their toddler years.
Secondly, the most important reason is to learn how to survive independently. A ringneck must learn to adapt and survive on its own without the aid of its parents. I have noticed that during this bluffing stage, Indian Ringnecks are fearless. They explore items without caution and are very careless. I am convinced this stage helps them understand what is acceptable and what’s dangerous.
Much like a toddler, who grabs at anything, ringnecks use their beak in this same manner. It's their way of testing objects and learning about themselves, foods, and objects.
Thirdly, it could be a genetic trait helps them to avoid inbreeding (Indian Ringnecks are not monogamous).
Old literature points out that Indian Ringnecks went through this stage to test their limits with their owners, though this holds some truth, ringnecks, or any other parrot for that matter, I believe do not have pack mentalities like canines. I believe there is no alpha leader, instead Indian Ringnecks work together as one entity—known as a flock. With the birds I have studied and seen, no Indian Ringneck leads the flock or is more dominant then the others. They may get into quarrels, but they are quickly solved and the birds go about their business. So how should bluffing be addressed?
Start by interacting with the bird like you would normally do. This bluffing needs to be completely ignored. If the bird bites do not make a fuss about it and completely ignore it. Under no circumstances are you to yell or hit your bird during this stage -- or any other time. Do not wobble your hand, do not spray the bird, or do not flick the beak. Ringnecks do not understand this type of punishment. If they are abused in this manner they become aggressive and fearful of humans. You need to gradually let your ringneck know that biting is not tolerated and will get no reaction out of you. At the same time, you need to be open to your ringneck’s needs and be understanding towards your bird’s attitude. They need to feel confident enough to trust you and they need time to let these hormones subside.
I have seen many ringnecks become biters during this stage because they were improperly dealt with. Some owners resorted to abusive tactics in hopes their ringneck would learn that biting equals punishment. Other owners choose not to deal with the bluffing, so they confined their parrot to a cage. Yelling at your ringneck or telling him to stop also resulted in chronic biting. In the ringneck’s eyes, any type of reaction given by you is a reward. The best and effective way to deal with this is to ignore it. Your voice should only be used to greet, praise, and coddle the bird—not for discipline.
Though some bites are predictable, some are not. To minimize these bites keep a toy or something your ringneck finds fascinating. Distract him as much as possible if you believe your ringneck is extra edgy or moody for that particular sitting. If your ringneck does choose to bite and will not let go, gently blow on its beak and ignore the fact you got bit. Do this until the bluffing has passed.
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